My family and I have recently moved to Gurgaon in India. This is a return for me after 17 years away but the first time for the rest of my family, my kids being 10 and 8. To say that this has been challenging is an understatement. Despite the advantages of fluency in language and similarity in appearance to the locals I have discovered that I am not the same 'Indian' that I was. I have managed to train myself and my children to look past the immediate chaos, squalor and civic mayhem that passes for urban living in this part of India but I am still struggling with the feeling that the affluent people in our nation display an apathetic attitude to any sense of civic or social responsibility. Certainly I am amazed at the continuing feudal structure between the haves and have-nots but also within the struggling have-nots who seem to have unwritten rules about who will deign to do what. Having said all this, I could ramble on with no thought to giving any positive ideas for any one who might find this post useful in preparing to return to India.
Visas: First things first, if you and your family are moving here with work, please make sure that all your visas are obtained in the country from which you are coming. In case anyone of you are travelling on non-Indian passports and you have non-Indian dependents moving with you, make sure you get their dependent visa, called an X-type visa, before you land in India to start your new life here. Trying to get a visa changed from tourist to dependent type once in India is a special kind of misery. Alternatively you can travel out of India every 6 months and get a new tourist visa, which becomes awkward if you have kids at school.
Foreigner Registration: In Delhi all foreign nationals on a visa which is valid for more than 6 months are required to register at the FRRO located in R K Puram. Check out this website for more info http://mha.nic.in/. In Gurgaon, you are required to register with the Depty SP’s office which is in the Mini Secretariat near Vijay Chowk as you come under the jurisdiction of the Haryana State Government.
For your info, the Ministry of Home Affairs offices are at Jaisalmer House, 26 Man Singh Road, New Delhi.
If required, ensure that you are at the office around 10:00 – 10:30 am. Though people queue outside from 8:45am, there is little adherence to the rule of first come first served, and so as long as you are there to receive a token from the ‘babu’ outside the Reception office, you will be able to join the heaving & desperate masses, trying to get new visas, extend them or get exit permits coz their visas expired!! In essence, all at the mercy of the ‘facilitators’ on the other side of the table. That is a new term which I believe the government is trying to use when describing its employees as a PR exercise to change its image, the previous term being ‘bloodsuckers’. Be prepared to spend the entire day there and I mean the entire day as you could be waiting till 10pm for the all important sealed envelope which will decide your fate.
School: One of the positive experience so far as a family has been the ease with which our kids have been integrated into the International school. Pathways World School has been a godsend for our family and if the children had not been settled into it fairly early into our stay, I shudder to think whether we would have stuck around. In case you are moving to Gurgaon and wish to consider a school other than the British or American schools (both in Chanakyapuri) do visit this website www.pathways.ac.in . The school itself is certainly well worth a visit before making the decision. Unlike the British or American International schools, Pathways does teach Hindi as a 2nd or 3rd language, which has been great for my kids. There are other private schools which cater to Indian and NRI families and are termed as International Schools, but I believe they follow a CBSE (Indian) system. There is the Scottish International, G.D.Goenka International School, Sriram International School and the various Delhi Public Schools. Prepare yourself for a strange phenomenon, which I have experienced in this part of India
Whenever you inquire about a product or service from a tradesperson, salesperson or employee, you will most likely hear 'Ho Jayega' which means 'it can be done' along with the appropriate head shake. This does not however mean that 'he' will be the one to do the job or get the product in the time frame that you require it. Just a little hint.
The other absolute essential is follow-up (thanks Vikram). If you need something done within a certain time-frame make sure you follow-up every day at least a few times or employ someone for all your follow-up needs. If you are moving into a rental property, ensure that your agent/employer/property-owner completes all the repair and maintenance issues before you move in. One essential is getting all the electricals/sockets/fittings checked by a reliable electrician, ask you agent, because the wiring is unreliable and unstable to say the least. Once you are in, there is little incentive on their part to complete and there is little enthusiasm on your part to have strange men walking in and out of your home.
Getting phone/gas connection for a foreign national is on par with getting a seat with Jack Nicholson at the Oscars, due to the red tape involved with providing proof of residence (copy of lease agreement), and a photo ID (passport copy) which is recognized by the supplier. The trick to getting a gas connection quickly is to agree to buy a base model 2 burner cooking hob/top (approx. Rs.2500). This miraculously speeds up the connection by a whole 3 weeks so that you get your cylinder the next day. If you are not buying one of these, you will have to have your existing cooktop ‘verified’ by their technician which can take 3 weeks.
Getting domestic help in India is not a huge problem, but reliable and diligent workers are a problem. If you have any old connections you can mine for your help requirements, please do. You might be able to pay them a little bit more than they are earning and at least have someone known to look after your children. A few of the well-established and well-run developments/complexes in Gurgaon conduct security checks on all domestic help employed within the complex and issue them with ID cards. Certainly part-time cleaners start showing up while the movers are still unpacking but if you need live-in help, I would recommend using any safe contacts you might have in other parts of India.We did. And have a police erification done.
If you have not driven in India for a few years I suggest getting a driver. The best reason for this is that you will reduce the risk of stress from road rage brought on by hours of sitting in traffic, driving alongside lawless and ignorant drivers who are using better cars/vehicles and wider roads but fewer braincells. Everyone is in a bigger rush than everyone else and relies on the horn, much like Moses did, to part the sea of vehicles in front of them. In Gurgaon the concrete centre divider separating 2 sides of a road is no match for the guy wanting to do a U-turn at the point where he chooses to. Gurgaonites can be excused as they were and are essentially farmers who are used to driving diagonally across fields to get to their destination, so what if development has raised its inconvenient head in their path.
Groceries and supermarkets are quite well-stocked and chains like ‘Needs’ or ‘Spencers’ can, within reason, supply you with the basics for an Italian, Mexican, Chinese, Thai, European meal. Though simple things like shaved honey ham maybe more difficult to find Feta cheese, Pesto, Thai pastes etc are standard. There is a chain of deli-style shops in Delhi/Gurgaon called Le Marche at Khan Market and Galleria Market respectively. I have to admit that I am really enjoying seasonal fruit and vegetables after a steady diet of nearly everything available all year round in our previous domiciles. The quality of local fruit and veg is quite good and you can get nearly-fresh iceberg lettuce everyday. I have also managed to find a bakery in Jorbagh, through word of mouth, which sells pre-made puff pastry dough by the kilo!!!
Pollution levels are not as bad as they are reputed to be in Bombay, sorry Mumbai, can’t get used to that! Delhi still boasts of open green areas within the city, like Lodhi Gardens, Garden of the five senses, Humayun’s tomb, Talkatora Gardens. Gurgaon has at least one park, Leisure Valley Park, which is quite good for a jog or stroll. There is of course a lot of dust due to the dryness as well as the proximity to the desert in Rajasthan.
Northern summers are killers and as such please be very careful of your children spending too much time outside during the hottest part of the day. A Delhi scorcher can take the stuffing out of most adults. Lots of hydration and yoghurt/curd/lassi and staying indoors as far as possible between 9 am and 5pm !!! Hope that you move into a complex with a pool or have access to one of the social or golf clubs, which might give you an opportunity to cool off.
Now for all you ladies who might move back with or without your significant other. The North Indian male does not discriminate between married or single women when it comes to showing them his particular brand of appreciation. Please get used to swiveling heads, the need for them to brush against you in an empty open space, verbal comments, stares (tip of the iceberg), unwarranted phonecalls if you end up leaving your details somewhere. Chances are that the person pranking you on the phone is more likely to be an executive at an office than the delivery boy from the pizza place. Its the arrogance of the executive that makes him believe that he is immune to any consequence, coupled with the general belief that women are not strong enough to do anything about his behaviour.
Hello I am a U S A expat and moved here a month ago with my husband and I would like to meet and make new friends. I am home all day, and want to be able to chat or go out for coffee. I live in Gurgaon, very close to Galeria Market. I also would like to volunteer in a school if possible, since I am a Special Needs Teacher. I have tried to find an Expat Organization Group, with no luck.
February, 2010
Posted by: Carmen | February 09, 2010 at 01:03 PM
Hi everyone,
it feels like home when readg the blog. every story has a beautiful touch , mine is slightly different. Myself planng to relocate as been an NRI for 8 years now, its not going to be easy to be back to india. Mumbai is the place where we left last nd now will be back to delhi. My question was how far is Mandangir from Gurgaon. Schools info. is very handy..thanks to all. Keep sendg the handy info....it certainly helps.
Posted by: Roma | April 17, 2010 at 11:18 AM
Hi ,We are in the us for 14 years now and plan to return this summer.We have 12 year old and twin boys 7 year we r planning to be in noida.Looking for rentals and also good schools.Our kids can understand hindi but do'nt know how to read or write.Can someone please suggest good schools in noida area which cater to the needs of such kids and how much is their yearly tuition.Thanks,
Reena
Posted by: reena nanda | April 27, 2010 at 09:48 PM
Hi, We are planning to shift to Gurgaon in June end .. have secured admission for my 7 year old daughter in Scottish High Internationals School Would love to be in touch with the Gurgaon Network in yahoo groups. Please add me in the group.
Thanks
Veena
Posted by: Veena Narayanan | May 10, 2010 at 09:20 AM
Hi,
We have lived in Canada for 7 yrs and my husband is very keen to move back to India and live in Gurgaon for greater work opportunities. Though I miss the family and feel my 5 and 8 yr old kids will greatly benefit from grandparents, cousins, uncles and aunts,i feel very hesitant to change this "Canadian" life-style. Simple things like a clear sky, clean water, parks and lakes in abundance to enjoy whenever we feel like it ( i mean in summer) and my privacy and independence. Being able to jog on the streets, wear shorts, with nobody watching or bothered. Also issues about safety. I was very worried about the school and food, but your post has helped very useful in that regard. Do you have any tips for us for the other things? Also, how high is the school fee for 2 kids at Pathways? Thanks a lot for your reply. J
Posted by: J | August 08, 2010 at 12:04 PM
You did a very brave move, just to think about all the arrangements you have managed with.. Hope you new life will be successful happy and easy going. Thanks for shearing that interesting post.
Posted by: moving quotes | September 30, 2010 at 08:52 PM
Very interesting and informative article to be read...
Posted by: cbse school in ahmedabad | November 13, 2010 at 12:47 PM
This site is great as I am facing a real challenge in adjusting. I moved in here with my hubby nd two kids aged 10 and 13 . Whew!! school searching and house searching was tough and I finally found Aralias in Gurgaon as a good place to stay. My Kids are going to Excelsior American School and I am a satisfied parent . It's a small school with less kids but a very friendly environment ..ofcourse there were some teething problems but am satisfied as the kids are happy.....found some great shopping places in malls ...am happy
Posted by: Mathew | January 12, 2011 at 06:21 PM
Looks like some really awesome building there. I would love to visit and see what the lifestyle is like.
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